Technical Articles
Sid Goble Farina Magnette IFS
MGC Improvements
Spark Plug and lead check on an MGF
Upgrading ADO16G, - The MG 1100/1300
The MGB
Installation of Lumenition "Optronic Ignition" in an MG Midget
Convert my Midget or Sprite to an alternator from a dynamo
MGF to TF Front Conversion
Spark Plug and lead check on an MGF
 

Before we start you will need the following if replacement is necessary:-
Spark plugs - you decide on which ones to use as replacements as there are now many varieties that can be used, it all depends on your budget
Spark plug leads - again depends on your budget

I, like many MG owners like to monitor and tinker with my MG and owning an F has not changed the way I tinker. Normally I check my spark plugs and leads once a year usually late March or early April, so this article is just at the right time.

Now we are ready to start, we first have to unclip the hood, the clips around the rear screen and parcel shelf (for those who have not taken their hardtop off, this of course must be done) be careful here as the clips spring back and twang your fingers! Once all unclipped, lift the rear of the hood from the outside to a vertical position and release the front hood release clips. It's now best to find a bungee strap to hold the hood in this position and well out of your way.

Remove the parcel shelf carpet and soundproofing. If you have a 2000 model you will have to pull the soundproofing from under the rear speakers slowly, but it will come. Once off, the inspection plate is fully visible so start removing the bolts around the plate. Use a plastic cup here to collect the removed bolts. Again, if you have a 2000 model there are a few bolts under the rear speakers, which will come out, but are fiddly.

Now the inspection panel is off the engine is visible. Remove the panel with "Rover" on it; this now gives you access to the spark plugs and leads.

Now that you have access to the area, pull off the spark plug leads and then use your spark plug spanner to undo the sparkplugs. Check the gap with a feeler gauge and adjust as necessary. Before replacement, smear a small amount of copper grease around the thread and replace the plug. Do this to all four and torque up, once torqued, clip on the leads. At this time I always spray everything in this area with GT85, which protects all the leads from damp.

If you have had problems with poor starting or misfiring on damp, cold mornings or after rain, this usually denotes that the spark plug leads are tracking and require replacement so it's best done now and if you have done near 65K miles it's also time the plugs are replaced.

Once all tasks are completed, replace the inspection cover and the parcel shelf. Lower the hood into place and re-clip it, back & front. This again can be fiddly so its best done from inside the car. Once completed don't forget hood down for a test drive.

Technical Data
Spark plug torque 25NM
Spark Plug gap 0.9 +/- 0.1MM
Engine cover bolts 10NM

Tools and ancillaries required
Socket set
Torque wrench
Ring and open-ended spanners
GT85
Copper grease

Additions
Other things to consider at this point - upgrade your air filter to a K&N type for better engine breathing whilst in bits. It's well worth the extra for its sporty noise together with smoother acceleration.
If you find your boot becoming stiffer daily, then it's the springs starting to rust. Before you refit the engine cover plate spray the boot springs inside the engine bay until nice and loose again. Don't forget to do this again before the winter starts.